Quick Answer

If the circulation pump runs continuously, the most likely causes are a faulty control board relay, stuck door switch signal, or incorrect sensor input. The dishwasher is basically “stuck” in a run command.

Step-by-step troubleshooting guide

1. Confirm the pump sequence (important clue)

From your description:

• Drain pump starts → stops
• Water enters briefly
• Circulation pump starts and keeps running

👉 This shows:

• The cycle logic begins correctly
• The issue happens when the main wash phase starts

2. Check the door switch first

Even though the pump keeps running when the door opens:

• The dishwasher should stop immediately when the door opens

If it doesn’t:

• The door switch is faulty or stuck closed

What to do:

• Inspect the latch
• Test the switch with a multimeter
• Replace if it doesn’t change state

3. Inspect the control board relay (very common cause)

The circulation pump is controlled by a relay on the control board.

If the relay is stuck:

• Pump runs continuously
• Doesn’t respond to door opening

👉 This is one of the most common faults.

4. Check for moisture or short circuits

Water leaks can cause:

• False signals
• Stuck components

Inspect:

• Bottom base for moisture
• Wiring harness for damage
• Connectors for corrosion

5. Verify sensor inputs (NTC / pressure switch)

If sensors send incorrect data:

• The control board may think it must keep running

Check:

• Temperature sensor (NTC)
• Pressure/flow switch

Faulty readings can confuse the control logic.

6. Reset the dishwasher fully

Do a hard reset:

• Turn off at breaker for 5 minutes
• Turn back on and test

This can clear logic glitches.

7. Run diagnostic/test mode

If your model supports it:

• Enter service mode
• Check for error codes

This helps confirm if it’s:

• Sensor issue
• Control board fault

Extra tips and best practices

• Always test with the door slightly open to confirm switch behavior
• Keep internal components dry
• Use model-specific service manuals for button combinations
• Replace relays or boards only after confirming faults

Common mistakes to avoid

• Confusing circulation pump with drain pump
• Ignoring door switch behavior
• Replacing pumps when the issue is electrical
• Skipping diagnostic testing

FAQ

Why doesn’t the pump stop when I open the door?

Because the door switch isn’t signaling the control board properly or the board is ignoring it.

Could this be an Aquastop issue?

Aquastop usually triggers the drain pump, not the circulation pump.

Is the circulation pump itself faulty?

Unlikely. A faulty pump wouldn’t run continuously — this is usually a control issue.

Conclusion

Since your dishwasher starts normally but the circulation pump keeps running, the issue is most likely electrical control-related, not mechanical. Focus on the door switch and control board relay first, as these are the most common causes.

Once the correct signal path is restored, the pump should behave normally again.

Quick Answer

If only some programmes heat, the issue is usually sensor feedback, control logic, or calibration, not the heater itself. Running a diagnostic test cycle often reveals the exact fault.

Step-by-step troubleshooting guide

1. Confirm the key symptom

From your case:

• Quick wash → heats normally
• Eco / Intensive → cold water

👉 This means:

• The heater and pump are working
• The issue is program-specific control

2. Run the dishwasher test program (critical step)

Bosch dishwashers have a built-in diagnostic mode.

Why this matters:

• It checks all components
• It displays error codes
• It helps identify sensor or logic faults

What to do:

• Enter service/test mode (button combo varies by model)
• Run full diagnostic cycle
• Note any error codes

3. Check the NTC temperature sensor

Eco and intensive cycles rely heavily on temperature feedback.

If the NTC sensor is faulty or misreading:

• The machine thinks water is already hot
• So it doesn’t activate heating

👉 Quick cycles often ignore or override this, which is why they still work.

4. Verify heat pump installation

Since you replaced it:

• Ensure all connectors are properly seated
• Check wiring harness alignment
• Confirm no pins are bent or loose

Even a small connection issue can affect certain cycles.

5. Check wiring between components

Focus on:

• Heat pump → control board
• Sensor → control board

Look for:

• Loose connections
• Damaged wires
• Corrosion

6. Consider control board calibration issue

Even with a new panel:

• The dishwasher may need reset or recalibration
• Some Bosch units store cycle logic separately

👉 Running the test cycle often resets internal parameters.

7. Check flow and pressure conditions

Eco cycles are more sensitive to:

• Water flow rate
• Energy efficiency controls

If flow is slightly off:

• Heating may not trigger

Check:

• Inlet valve performance
• Filters and flow paths

Extra tips and best practices

• Always run a test program after major repairs
• Double-check part compatibility with your exact model
• Keep a note of any error codes for future troubleshooting
• Use hot water supply to help initial heating

Common mistakes to avoid

• Assuming the heater is faulty (it works on quick cycle)
• Replacing control panels without diagnostics
• Ignoring sensor-related issues
• Skipping test mode after installing new parts

FAQ

Why does the quick cycle heat but eco doesn’t?

Quick cycles often use simpler logic, while eco relies on sensor feedback and efficiency algorithms.

Could this still be a control board issue?

Yes, but less likely since you replaced it. It’s more often a sensor or calibration problem.

Do I need to replace the heat pump again?

Unlikely. Since it heats in one cycle, the heater is functioning correctly.

Conclusion

Since your dishwasher heats on quick wash, the hardware is working. The problem lies in how the system decides when to heat, which points to sensor feedback, wiring, or calibration issues.

Start by running the diagnostic test program. That’s the fastest way to pinpoint the fault and avoid replacing more parts unnecessarily.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1377207/Bosch-800-Plus-Series.html
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dishwasher/58-6--/Dishwasher-Not-Heating

Quick Answer

No, the door switch does not control main power. It only signals the control board whether the door is open or closed, so the dishwasher knows when to start or stop.

How the door switch actually works

1. It acts as a safety signal, not a power switch

On the Bosch SHXM98W75N:

• Power always goes to the control board
• The door switch tells the board:
  • “Door closed → safe to run”
  • “Door open → stop immediately”

So it’s more like a permission sensor, not a power cutoff.

2. What happens when you open the door

When the door opens:

• The switch changes state
• The control board instantly:
  • Stops the wash motor
  • Stops heating
  • Pauses the cycle

This prevents water spray and heat exposure.

3. What happens if the door switch is faulty

A bad switch can cause:

• Dishwasher won’t start
• Cycle stops randomly
• Machine thinks door is open when it’s closed
• Intermittent operation

👉 But the display may still light up, since power is still present.

Step-by-step way to test the door switch

1. Disconnect power first

• Turn off at the breaker
• Safety first

2. Access the door switch

• Open the door
• Remove screws around the inner panel
• Separate the inner and outer door

The switch is located near the latch assembly.

3. Test with a multimeter

Use continuity mode:

• Door closed → should show continuity (closed circuit)
• Door open → should show no continuity (open circuit)

If readings don’t change → switch is faulty.

4. Check the latch mechanism

Sometimes it’s not the switch:

• Misaligned latch
• Worn latch hook

If the latch doesn’t press the switch fully, it won’t trigger.

Extra tips and best practices

• Always close the door firmly before starting
• Inspect latch alignment regularly
• Replace both latch and switch together if worn
• Avoid slamming the door (can damage switch over time)

Common mistakes to avoid

• Assuming no power = bad door switch
• Replacing the switch without testing
• Ignoring latch misalignment
• Working on the door without disconnecting power

FAQ

If the door switch fails, will the dishwasher turn on?

Yes, the display may still work, but the dishwasher won’t start or will stop immediately.

Can I bypass the door switch?

Not recommended. It’s a critical safety feature.

Is this the same as the door latch?

No. The latch is mechanical, while the door switch is electrical, but they work together.

Conclusion

The door switch on the Bosch SHXM98W75N doesn’t control power directly. Instead, it communicates with the control board to ensure safe operation. If your dishwasher isn’t running, the switch could still be the issue — but it’s about signal, not power flow.

Testing it with a multimeter is the fastest way to confirm.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dishwasher/50-4--/Dishwasher-Won-t-Start
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dishwasher-repair-help/dishwasher-will-not-start.html

Quick Answer

If the top arm isn’t spinning and detergent isn’t dissolving, the problem is usually low water pressure inside the dishwasher, caused by a faulty circulation pump, arm selector motor, or blockage in the feed system.

Step-by-step troubleshooting guide

1. Confirm the main symptom (important clue)

You’ve already noticed:

• Upper arm not spinning
• Pods not dissolving

👉 This strongly points to weak or no spray pressure, not just a clogged arm.

2. Check water level inside the dishwasher

Even though you added water manually, confirm:

• Start a cycle
• Open after fill
• Water should sit just below the heating element

If low:

• Could be a faulty inlet valve

3. Test the circulation pump (most likely issue)

The circulation pump drives all spray arms.

Signs it’s failing:

• Weak water movement
• Arms not spinning
• Pods not dissolving

Quick test:

• Start a wash cycle
• Listen for a strong spraying sound

If it sounds weak or quiet → pump issue likely.

4. Check the spray arm feed tube

Water reaches the top arm through a vertical channel.

• Inspect the rear feed tube
• Make sure it aligns properly with the rack
• Look for cracks or blockages

If misaligned, water won’t reach the upper arm.

5. Inspect the arm selector motor (very common on Bosch)

This matches the answer you found.

Bosch dishwashers use a diverter (arm selector motor) to switch water between arms.

If faulty:

• Water may only go to the bottom arm
• Upper arm stays still

What to check:

• Wiring connections
• Signs of damage
• Whether it’s stuck in one position

6. Check the impeller (your current suspicion)

You can test it before replacing:

• Remove lower components
• Spin the impeller manually
• It should move smoothly

If damaged:

• Blades may be worn
• Pump can’t generate pressure

👉 Your order for this part makes sense if pump pressure is weak.

7. Run a simple spin test

Quick real-world test:

• Place a small object (like a toothpick) on the upper arm
• Run a short cycle
• Open after a minute

If it hasn’t moved → no water reaching it.

8. Access diagnostic mode (if available)

Bosch models like SHE68R55UC don’t always label buttons clearly.

Typical method:

• Turn dishwasher off
• Press and hold two program buttons
• Turn power on

(Exact combo varies, but usually the two leftmost buttons)

This can:

• Show error codes
• Run test cycles

Extra tips and best practices

• Always clean filters regularly
• Ensure racks are seated properly (alignment matters)
• Use proper detergent and avoid overloading
• Run hot water at the sink before starting a cycle

Common mistakes to avoid

• Replacing the impeller without checking the diverter motor
• Ignoring weak pump sounds
• Assuming clogs are the only issue
• Misaligning the upper rack feed tube

FAQ

Why is only the top rack dirty?

Because water isn’t reaching the upper spray arm, usually due to pump or diverter issues.

Can a bad impeller cause this?

Yes. A worn impeller reduces pressure, affecting all spray arms.

Is the arm selector motor a common failure?

Yes. On many Bosch models, it’s a frequent cause of uneven washing.

Conclusion

From your symptoms and what you’ve already tested, the most likely causes are:

• Weak circulation pump or damaged impeller
• Faulty arm selector (diverter motor)

Since you’ve cleaned everything and even added water, focus on water pressure components, not blockages. Testing the pump and diverter will point you to the exact fix.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dishwasher/33-4--/Dishwasher-Not-Cleaning-Dishes
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dishwasher-repair-help/dishwasher-spray-arm-not-spinning.html

Quick Answer

On the Bosch SHXM4AY55N, the antiflood (float) switch is not exposed underneath like in some videos. It’s located inside the base assembly under the tub, and you may need to access it from below or the side.

Step-by-step guide to locating the antiflood switch

1. Understand what E15 actually means

The E15 error indicates:

• Water has entered the base tray
• The antiflood float switch has been triggered

So even if you can’t see it, the system is detecting water underneath.

2. Know where the float switch is located

On your model:

• The float switch sits in a hidden base tray (basin)
• This is under the dishwasher tub, not directly visible from above
• It’s part of the leak protection system

That’s why you don’t see a “floor” like in other models.

3. Access the antiflood switch

To reach it:

• Turn off power and water
• Pull the dishwasher out slightly
• Remove the bottom front kick panel

From there:

• Look underneath the unit
• You may need to tilt it slightly backward

Inside, you’ll find:

• A plastic base tray
• A float (usually foam or plastic)
• A microswitch

4. Check for water in the base tray

This is the most common cause.

• If water is present → it lifts the float → triggers E15

Fix:

• Carefully dry the base using:
  • Towels
  • Sponge
• You can also tilt the dishwasher slightly to drain water out

5. Inspect for the source of the leak

Drying resets the error temporarily, but you must find the cause:

Check for:

• Loose hoses
• Door seal leaks
• Faulty inlet valve
• Cracked sump or pump housing

6. Test the float switch

If no water is present:

• Locate the float
• Move it up and down manually
• Listen for a click from the microswitch

You can also test continuity with a multimeter.

7. Reset and test

After drying:

• Reassemble
• Power on
• Run a short cycle

If E15 returns, there is still a leak or a faulty switch.

Extra tips and best practices

• Always identify the full model number (e.g., SHXM4AY55N/24) for exact parts
• Take photos before removing panels
• Check for slow leaks that only appear during wash cycles
• Run the dishwasher while slightly pulled out to observe leaks

Common mistakes to avoid

• Assuming the float switch is missing (it’s just hidden)
• Resetting the error without fixing the leak
• Ignoring small drips that trigger the sensor later
• Tilting excessively and causing more internal water movement

FAQ

Why don’t I see a float switch like in videos?

Different Bosch models hide the antiflood system inside the base, not exposed.

Can I just dry it and keep using it?

You can reset it temporarily, but the leak will trigger E15 again.

Is E15 always caused by a leak?

Almost always. Occasionally, it could be a faulty float switch, but leaks are far more common.

Conclusion

Your Bosch SHXM4AY55N does have an antiflood switch — it’s just hidden in the base tray under the unit. The E15 error confirms it’s being triggered, most likely by water accumulation from a leak.

Focus on accessing the base, drying it, and then tracking down the source. Once the leak is fixed, the error should disappear for good.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1377207/Bosch-800-Plus-Series.html
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dishwasher/52-6--/Bosch-Dishwasher-Error-Code-E15

Quick Answer

• The star symbol means rinse aid is low or needs refilling
• The arrow pointing to a vertical line means the cycle has finished (end of program)

Step-by-step explanation of the symbols

1. Star symbol = Rinse Aid indicator

This is one of the most common Bosch indicators.

• It lights up when rinse aid is low
• Rinse aid helps:
  • Improve drying
  • Prevent water spots

What to do:

• Open the dishwasher door
• Locate the rinse aid dispenser (next to detergent compartment)
• Fill it until full

2. Arrow pointing to a vertical line = Cycle end

This symbol simply tells you:

• The wash program has finished
• The dishwasher is ready to be opened

Some models may also:

• Beep
• Show a time of 0:00

Extra tips and best practices

• Always keep rinse aid topped up for better drying results
• Use the correct rinse aid setting depending on your water hardness
• Wait a few minutes after cycle end before opening for better drying
• Check your manual for model-specific icons

Common mistakes to avoid

• Ignoring the rinse aid light (leads to poor drying and streaks)
• Confusing the cycle-end symbol with an error
• Overfilling rinse aid (can cause excess foam)

FAQ

Why is the star symbol still on after refilling?

It may take one or two cycles for the sensor to reset.

Does the cycle end symbol mean there is a problem?

No. It simply indicates the program is complete.

Can I use the dishwasher without rinse aid?

Yes, but dishes may come out wet or spotty, especially on glass.

Conclusion

These symbols are actually simple once you know them. The star reminds you to refill rinse aid, while the arrow symbol just confirms the cycle is done. No fault, no issue — just normal operation.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/customer-service/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1377207/Bosch-800-Plus-Series.html

Quick Answer

To replace the heat exchange outlet valve (regeneration valve), you’ll need to remove the side panel, access the heat exchanger, disconnect wiring and hoses, then swap the valve. The process takes about 30–60 minutes.

Step-by-step guide

1. Disconnect power and water

Start safely:

• Turn off power at the consumer unit
• Shut off the water supply
• Pull the dishwasher out slightly

Never skip this step.

2. Remove the outer casing (side panel)

The valve is usually located behind the left side panel.

• Remove screws at the back and top edge
• Slide or lift off the left panel
• You’ll now see the heat exchanger unit (large plastic water chamber)

3. Locate the heat exchange outlet valve

Look for:

• A small valve attached to the heat exchanger
• Usually with 2 wires (solenoid)
• Connected to thin hoses or channels

This is often called the regeneration valve in Bosch manuals.

4. Disconnect electrical connector

Carefully:

• Unplug the wiring connector
• Do not pull wires directly
• Use gentle pressure on the clip

5. Remove hoses or clips

Depending on your model:

• Release hose clamps or plastic clips
• Expect a small amount of water

Keep a towel nearby.

6. Remove the old outlet valve

The valve is typically:

• Clipped or screwed in place

So:

• Unclip or unscrew it
• Gently pull it out of the housing

7. Install the new valve

Now reverse the process:

• Fit the new valve into position
• Secure with clips or screws
• Reconnect hoses firmly
• Plug back the electrical connector

Make sure everything is tight and aligned.

8. Reassemble and test

• Reattach the side panel
• Turn water and power back on
• Run a short cycle

Check for:

• Leaks
• Proper filling and draining
• No error codes

Extra tips and best practices

• Take photos before removing parts
• Label connectors if unsure
• Clean the heat exchanger area while open
• Use the exact replacement part for your model

Common mistakes to avoid

• Not disconnecting power (very risky)
• Breaking plastic clips (they’re fragile)
• Forgetting hose placement
• Installing the valve backwards
• Skipping a test cycle before full use

FAQ

What does the heat exchange outlet valve do?

It controls water flow in the heat exchanger system, helping regulate temperature and efficiency.

Is this the same as the regeneration valve?

Yes. Bosch often refers to it as the regeneration valve in service manuals.

Do I need to remove the whole dishwasher?

Usually no. Pulling it out slightly and removing the side panel is enough.

Conclusion

Replacing the heat exchange outlet valve on a Bosch dishwasher may look complicated, but it’s mostly about access and careful disassembly. Once you reach the heat exchanger, the swap itself is straightforward.

Take your time, follow the steps, and you should have it working again without needing a technician.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.espares.co.uk/advice/dishwashers/a/1/143/how-to-repair-a-dishwasher
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1377207/Bosch-800-Plus-Series.html

Quick Answer

If your Bosch dishwasher won’t connect to WiFi, it’s usually a Home Connect module glitch, network band issue, or router IP change. A full reset and reconnect typically fixes it.

Step-by-step solution

1. Power-cycle the dishwasher properly

This is the most important step.

• Turn off the dishwasher
• Go to your consumer unit / breaker
• Switch it off for 2–3 minutes
• Turn it back on

This resets the internal Home Connect module, not just the surface controls.

2. Reconnect using the Home Connect app

After restarting:

• Open the Home Connect app
• Go to Settings → WiFi
• Tap Reconnect appliance

Sometimes the dishwasher simply loses its saved network.

3. Check your WiFi band (very common issue)

Bosch dishwashers only support:

• 2.4GHz WiFi (NOT 5GHz)

Make sure:

• Your 2.4GHz network is enabled
• It hasn’t been renamed or merged with 5GHz

If your router uses “Smart Connect,” try temporarily separating the bands.

4. Verify signal strength

Weak signal = random disconnects.

• Ensure the dishwasher is not too far from the router
• Avoid interference from:
  • Thick walls
  • Microwaves
  • Metal cabinets

If needed, move the router closer or use a WiFi extender.

5. Check router IP assignment

Sometimes the router assigns a new IP:

• Restart your router
• Then reconnect the dishwasher

This refreshes the network connection.

6. Reset WiFi settings on the dishwasher

If it still won’t connect:

• Go into the dishwasher settings
• Reset network/WiFi configuration
• Set it up again from scratch in the app

7. Consider Home Connect module fault

If none of the above works:

• The Home Connect (WiFi) module inside the door may be frozen or faulty
• This can happen even on newer units

At that point, you may need a repair or replacement module.

Extra tips and best practices

• Keep your router firmware updated
• Avoid changing WiFi names frequently
• Use a dedicated 2.4GHz SSID for smart appliances
• Place your router centrally in the house

Common mistakes to avoid

• Only turning off the dishwasher (not the breaker reset)
• Trying to connect on 5GHz WiFi
• Ignoring weak signal issues
• Repeatedly retrying without resetting the module

FAQ

Why did my dishwasher suddenly disconnect from WiFi?

Usually due to IP changes, router updates, or a module glitch.

Can Bosch dishwashers connect to 5GHz WiFi?

No. They only support 2.4GHz networks.

Do I need to replace the dishwasher?

No. In most cases, it’s just a reset or reconnection issue. Only rarely is the module faulty.

Conclusion

In most cases, this problem comes down to a temporary glitch in the Home Connect module or network settings. Start with a full power reset, then reconnect through the app. If that fails, check your WiFi band and signal.

If everything else checks out, the WiFi module itself may need attention, but that’s usually the last step.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-support/get-support/home-connect
https://www.home-connect.com/global/support
https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/customer-service/get-support/dishwashers

Quick Answer

If your dishwasher trips the power during the drain cycle, the most common cause is a faulty drain pump motor or an electrical short. Testing the pump with a multimeter is the fastest way to confirm.

Step-by-step troubleshooting guide

1. Turn off power completely (very important)

Before anything:

• Switch off at the consumer unit
• Unplug the dishwasher if possible

This avoids electric shock and further damage.

2. Confirm it’s happening during the drain cycle

From your description:

• Stops at ~8 minutes remaining
• Water still inside

That strongly suggests the issue occurs when the drain pump activates.

3. Check for blockages first

Even if you already checked, double confirm:

• Remove and clean the filter
• Inspect the sump area
• Check the drain hose for kinks or debris

A blockage won’t usually trip power, but it’s good to rule it out.

4. Inspect the drain pump impeller

You already did this, but for clarity:

• Open the sump
• Spin the impeller
• It should rotate freely and smoothly

If it feels stiff or jammed, the motor may be failing under load.

5. Test the drain pump with a multimeter

This is the key step.

• Disconnect the drain pump wiring
• Use a DMM (digital multimeter) on Ohms

Check for:

• 0.0 Ohms → short circuit (bad motor)
• Very high/infinite → open circuit (also bad)
• Continuity to chassis → dangerous short (definite fault)

If any of these show up, the drain pump needs replacing.

6. Check wiring and connectors

Sometimes it’s not the motor itself:

• Look for burn marks
• Check for loose connectors
• Inspect wires for damage or moisture

A short in wiring can also trip the breaker.

7. Test without the drain pump connected

If safe to do:

• Disconnect the drain pump
• Run a short cycle

If the dishwasher no longer trips, then the pump is almost certainly the issue.

Extra tips and best practices

• Always use the correct replacement drain pump for your model (sms65e02gb/07)
• Keep filters clean to reduce strain on the motor
• Avoid running cycles with standing water repeatedly
• If unsure, isolate the appliance on its own circuit for testing

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping electrical tests and replacing parts blindly
• Ignoring wiring faults and blaming the pump only
• Running the dishwasher multiple times while it’s tripping (can damage the board)
• Not disconnecting power before testing

FAQ

Why does my dishwasher trip the breaker only at the end?

Because that’s when the drain pump activates, drawing current. A faulty motor can short under load.

Can a blocked drain cause electrical tripping?

Not usually. A blockage causes poor drainage, but tripping points to an electrical fault.

Is it safe to keep using it?

No. Repeated tripping can damage your consumer unit or control board.

Conclusion

From your symptoms, this is very likely a faulty drain pump or a short in its circuit. Since the impeller spins freely, the issue is probably internal to the motor windings. Testing with a multimeter will confirm it quickly.

Once verified, replacing the drain pump should solve the problem and stop the tripping.

Reference links

https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/customer-service/get-support/dishwashers
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dishwasher/24-4--/Dishwasher-Trips-Breaker
https://www.espares.co.uk/advice/dishwashers/a/1/138/how-to-fix-a-dishwasher-that-trips-the-electricity